Fencing is no laughing matter when raising poultry. Birds are highly vulnerable and a prime target for predators of all kinds.
There’s nothing worse than going out to the run or coop only to discover something has gotten past your security, and your farm is now the scene of a feathered mass murder. Poultry cost a lot to raise, and all that hard work can be wiped out in just a few minutes overnight, while you slumber peacefully nearby, oblivious to the danger.
Good fencing is one of those necessary farm staples that serve a dual purpose; they not only keep your livestock in, they also keep predators out, and there are few decisions that can have a bigger impact on your farm’s bottom line.
For farmers who pasture their birds, there is even more riding on their fencing. Pastured birds may be considered healthier, but there is increased risk for losses to predators. And those predators are many; skunks, weasels, raccoons, foxes, hawks and even neighbourhood dogs will all love the chance to dive into your coop and feast while you slumber, blissfully unaware.
You may think your coop or run is as secure as Fort Knox, but just in case, here’s a rundown of your fencing options, and how you can step up your fencing game.
Chicken Wire (1” mesh, 18-gauge)
When you read the title of this article, it’s likely the first type of fencing you thought of was chicken wire, the thin, flexible hexagonal mesh commonly used to fence in poultry. No one knows why this type of fencing is called “chicken wire” because in reality it offers very little protection for poultry.
In fact, the only thing chicken wire is really good for is keeping poultry contained, and even then it has its issues. This type of fencing bends easily, and it’s easy for young chicks to get caught in it. It also has large enough gaps for predators to stick hands through, and if they’re really determined they can stretch the holes wide enough to grab a chicken or gain entry into your coop.
If you must use chicken wire, try to source a minimum size of 1/2 to 1-inch, use staples to secure it to your coop or fence posts, and ensure it’s pulled tight enough to keep it from sagging. Fold over cut links to prevent them from getting caught on clothing (or birds). Consider using this fencing only as a secondary level of protection.
Ideal for: Temporary fencing or overhead cover.
Pros: Easy to source, inexpensive.
Cons: Weak, sharp when broken, tends to sag without a strong framework.
Chain Link
Chain link may be challenging to install, but it makes for an extremely strong fence, even if the holes are too large to keep out many of the crafty predators that stalk poultry. This fencing’s strength lies in how tough it is, and its ability to withstand even large predators. Use chain link along with a secondary layer of less expensive fencing with smaller holes.
Ideal for: Perimeter fencing for coop or run.
Pros: Strong enough to withstand larger predators, virtually maintenance free.
Cons: Holes are large, installation is challenging.
Electric Poultry Netting
Electric netting is not the end-all and be-all for poultry fencing, but it’s pretty close. If you are free ranging your poultry, it will offer the flexibility to allow you to easily change locations to access fresh grazing ground. Its real strength lies in its maneuverability for pastured poultry.
There are a couple of downsides to electric netting: First, just as with larger livestock, relying solely on electric fencing has its issues. It’s expensive, and dependant on access to electricity and can fail if that access is restricted. If you’re willing to take that risk, then it can be a good choice for your run or pasture.
Another electric fencing option is electric wire; you can run a single strand of electric wire near the base of any fence to deter predators looking for easy access. A second wire run parallel and a few inches above the first will add an extra layer of protection. Be sure the electric wire doesn’t come into contact with your metal permanent fence or you may run into short situations.
Ideal for: Pastured poultry or poultry runs as secondary protection.
Pros: Portable, easily set up, flexible, a strong deterrent for predators.
Cons: Subject to power failures, expensive.
Hardware Cloth (1/4” or 1/2")
The smaller the hole the better. This hardware cloth fencing has holes small enough that it’s virtually impenetrable.
Hardware cloth is strong, welded galvanized steel mesh that is sold in rolls and can be cut to length. This type of fencing is one of the best types of fencing for poultry. The smaller gaps and strength of the wire prevent it from being broken or stretched by predators, but that can also work against you when it comes to installation as its rigidity can be difficult to work with.
This type of fencing is sold in rolls at hardware or building stores, and needs to be cut if you need a shorter length for your fence. Cutting it can be a challenge, especially if you are using the ¼” size, and you will need to use tin snips or heavy shears.
Ideal for: Outdoor runs, pastured areas
Pros: Easy to move when you move pastures
Cons: Expensive, difficult to cut
Bird Netting
So many poultry owners spend a lot of money and time fencing in their birds only to overlook a major predator that is difficult to defend against — birds of prey. The mistake is easy to understand. Most of today’s domesticated poultry can’t fly, so at first thought it may seem like it isn’t a cause for concern.
There are a couple of ways to eliminate this risk. First, you can ensure that if your birds have an outdoor run, the length and shape of the run is not attractive for a bird of prey, who must have enough space to swoop in and then lift off again. Second, you can cover your run with any kind of netting. This is probably the simplest method of protecting your birds from overhead predators.
Ideal for: Overhead protection.
Pros: Easy to stretch over fenced areas.
Cons: Not strong enough for anything other than overhead use.
Don’t forget:
Bury your fencing a minimum of 12 inches vertically below grade to dissuade burrowing predators like skunks and weasels.
Fencing isn’t just for large spans or runs, it’s also needed to cover any openings in your coop. Cover the floor as an extra layer of protection.
Foxes, coyotes, and even neighbourhood dogs have been known to climb wire fences like chain link to access a coop. Ensure the holes in your wire fencing are small enough to prevent that from happening.
Your coop security doesn’t only depend on fencing. Remember that raccoons are smart and dextrous enough to open latches and doors (scary, but true).
— Amy Hogue