We heat 3600 square feet with wood, so when we bought the farm a wood splitter was needed. I searched around and settled on a new Wallenstein WX530 which was purchased locally for a few reasons. First, I have other equipment manufactured by this company and am pleased with their robust products; second, they are close by, should there be a need for any warranty work, third, it is equipped with a 5 hp GC160 Honda engine which I already own. This model of splitter comes equipped with a 20-ton ram having a 24 in. split capability, a standard single wedge with an optional double and is mounted on wheels with a 2 in. hitch receiver.
Heating 100 per cent with wood it was imperative that I obtain a good machine, even so, the unit was returned under warranty to have the hydraulic valve replaced. The return detent fell apart which meant you had to hold the valve in the return position until the ram fully retracted which significantly slows down the “load, split, pile load” rhythm. The valve was changed off and the unit put back in service within one day without issue.
I live in an amazing area and once while seated in the local gas station eatery having breakfast I engaged in a conversation comparing log splitters with no one else but Helen the waitress who was enthralled with the purchase of her new “green” splitter and how easy it was to operate. So, yes they also come in all colours including green.
But they all need attention now and then.
I start my maintenance with an overall blasting with compressed air outside to remove as much debris as possible before rolling it into the shop. Once inside I give a good wiping down with a rag to reveal any oil leaks, cracks and digression of the finish. Then I start with the engine, removing the air filter for examination. It’s a throw away paper cartridge type that once removed from the carburetor I turn upside down and bang on the fender. It’s amazing how much debris you can remove with this step. This is followed by a session with the shop vacuum. Don’t get too aggressive with this move or you’ll suck a hole right through it, just enough to help the remaining dust out. If you’ve been operating in dusty conditions or for a long time, these steps may not work and a replacement is in order.
Next up is to check the engine oil, as there is no hour meter on these engines so unless you record your actual time it becomes a look and see routine. I keep a record of the time in use and change the oil as per the manufacturer specifications as these small engines work hard. If you are doing the “look and see” then I recommend you change the oil just when it turns from a golden colour to a light brown. I have worked on engines where the oil is black, right black and it stinks. This is not good. The oil picks up carbon, dirt and metallic remains as a result of engine wear and it continually bathes the internal parts in this junk. It is imperative to change the oil to prevent premature wear. This is the cheapest oil change I have to do and it’s straight forward: loosen the filter, remove the drain bung and drain into your recovery pail. Reinstall the bung and fill it up to the designated mark on the dip stick with the specified oil. Done.
To finish off the engine I remove and check the spark plug. If it is working properly it should have a light brown to grey colour to the ignition end. I look for any cracks to the porcelain and then check that the gap is to specs before reinstallation.
The meat and potatoes of these units are the ways, splitter wedge and the hydraulics. The manufacture of your unit will advise of the intervals for hydraulic oil filter change and I recommend you follow it. A hydraulic oil filter is often overlooked but it will plug up with contaminants such as dirt and metallic remains as well. There is no gauge or switch to warn that it is getting plugged which can result in an improper oil flow to the pump (very expensive part) that may cause premature failure. So changing the filter becomes a cheap maintenance item. Some of these units are filled with clear hydraulic oil. Mine was filled with the red Ford power steering oil which is better in my mind as it shows up in the snow should there be a leak. It doesn’t matter which you use, just don’t mix the two, top up with what is in the unit to the level as advised by the manufacturer.
A check of the hydraulic system for tightness of fittings, condition of the hoses and a check for leaks are in order and any damaged or timed out hoses should be changed off prior to the next use to prevent any serious oil injection injuries. As with all hydraulic units you should have a manufacture data sheet of the specific oil on hand in the event of an injury.
Maintenance for the ways is straight forward; I clean them off with a scraper and apply a generous coating of grease. With the splitting wedge I like to dress the nicks out with a flat bastard file or a hand grinder. My unit can be operated in a horizontal or vertical plane which is my choice and places the butt of the ways on the ground. Even with a small plank under the end it still grinds away and the paint gets rubbed off allowing it to rust. So every year I take a wire brush to it, cleaning it up and then finish off by applying a couple of coats of brushed on rust paint.
After the maintenance I top up the fuel tank with high grade gas and a stabilizer so it will be ready to go for the next load of logs. As my wood processing area is under a roof a good part of the elements are deflected; however I still cover the engine with a wash tub when not in use and the tires are standing on small planks to prevent digression.
- Dan Kerr