We wanted the chickens downwind from the house but still close. We wanted garden tools and implements near the garden. The dog kennel just had to go, and my wife wanted a cabin where we would get the best view. Then a neighbour offered to help move some of the structures on the property in exchange for one of the chicken coops.

We took our time laying out our ideas on paper, taking measurements and calculating spacing. We moved the first building in the fall, the second on frozen ground during the winter and the third the following summer.

How you move any building should be based on its construction and what’s easiest for your equipment. Some small structures are built to be moved. Others can be moved with some effort. The remainder can’t be moved without a lot of effort and expense and bits destroyed or left behind. In the case of farm outbuildings, with the exception of the main barns, most are in the first two categories, and many were designed and built to be moved.

The first structure we moved was originally designed for foresters, built to be skidded, many times, from place to place. The skidding timbers are ten inches square. They also form the foundation, with the entire building constructed and bolted to them. The two skids protrude about twenty inches out the front and back. They are ski shaped and have holes drilled horizontally through them.

When we were considering if we could move this building we first ensured the skids were in good condition, with no rot. We checked the overall wellness of the building, made sure it wasn’t stuck or frozen into the ground and examined the chain and hooks for weak areas. The assessment took hours while the move was done in minutes.

The chain was looped through both holes and hooked to the tractor. As a double check for safety, a plank was nailed between the skids to ensure they didn’t cinch in.

We try to move this type of building only when the ground is frozen or at least hard. We work slowly. We ensured everything, including the dogs, were well out of the way in case something, such as a nail, let go or went wrong.

When it comes to tractors moving buildings we think, “More power.” Our own tractor was under powered for this job. We traded favours with a neighbouring dairy farm knowing it’s better to use a bigger and heavier tractor with the potential to pull the building apart than to be underpowered. We never attempt to move any weight without the equipment to do it safely. This is the same principle as towing a hay wagon. No matter what the terrain or incline, the tractor must have the horses and mass to start to pull and then stop with the weight. The risk is greatest on slopes.

In the second category we had two different styles of chicken sheds. These were not designed for moving but also were not on permanent foundations so they could be moved. Since the chicken pen was not designed with the concept of movement it is unwise to drag it. I decided to load it onto a hay wagon. The building was twelve feet square and we estimated the weight at about one thousand pounds. We used two tractors. The first was a 65 hp. 4×4. The second was a hundred hp. 4×4 tractor. Both were equipped with loaders and skid forks. This provided ample power and more, just in case. The challenge is to lift the building straight up and not to allow it to bend or twist as it elevates; then in our case, move it out to allow the hay wagon to be rolled under it. The largest tractor should be going ahead while the smaller one backing. This means the smaller tractor is placed in neutral and the larger tractor actually pushes it backwards. This prevents the building from slipping off the forks. The building was secured in place on the wagon and a heavy tie- down strap was used to hold both together while the building was towed down the road. The process was reversed to lift it down.

The third building was constructed as a trapper shack. It was designed for use on crown land and moved when necessary by placing it on timbers and skidding it. We had several concerns to address. First, we don’t own a skidder. Second the skidding timbers were not left under the structure and finally, there was limited room for maneuvering. We had only one option. We needed Mother Nature’s assistance in the form of snow so we could drag it across slippery ground.

The first attempt to drag the trapper shack with the sixty-five hp. 4×4 tractor simply didn’t work. We had steering issues. The building couldn’t drag and turn.

The next idea was the use of the log skidder attachment on the same tractor. The tractor was placed approximately where I wanted the building and the skidder planted firmly into the ground. The cable was drawn out and around the building and hooked over top of two nails I had driven into the far side bottom corners to hold the cable up onto the building. Once around the building the cable was hooked onto itself and then the winching process began. The building was successfully moved, then the tractor repositioned and the building was adjusted into spot. It helps to have a big tractor, however, big doesn’t mean that all is totally safe.

Lifting a building, at any time, requires excellent communication. Use walkie talkies or establish hand singles before you start. Maintain eye contact with your partner throughout the moving process. Remove any thing, such as dogs, that could cause distraction or cause you to lose your focus.

In addition to all the standard hazards of moving any heavy load, there are many unknowns — the condition of the under floor, what’s  under the building. You must work slowly and cautiously. If a wheel sinks during the lifting or moving process the entire load and tractor can wind up on its side. When towing, the weight of the item being towed is transferred to the rear axle of the tractor and the forward motion of the tractor causes torque onto the rear axle. The combination of too much drag and lots of power can cause a tractor to lift its front end off the ground. If not disengaged in time, it can perform a one hundred and eighty degree wheelie landing upside down, which could ruin your day if not your life. If you are expecting to tow the building down a decline, there is the danger of being over taken by the building causing a loss of control. Inclines can also result in the same wheelie roll over if there’s too much drag. If you don’t own a skidder attachment, rent, borrow or buy one before moving a building on an incline. By using the skidder attachment, we side stepped all of these situations as the drag is transferred directly to the bottom of the skidder attachment which is buried in the ground. Whether towed directly by the tractor with chains/cables etc. or pulled by a skidder attachment, the danger here is the possibility of the hooks, chains, chain links or cables breaking or coming apart. One should always be watchful, and stay clear or at least behind something while winching.

The neighbour sent over fresh eggs not long after he put his newly acquired chicken shed on wooden blocks.  I dug out under the corners of our trapper shack, placed pads and concrete blocks under it as a foundation, built a new ramp for the entrance and gave the whole thing some paint. My wife now has a new garden shed in the corner of her garden, I have more room in the tool shed, and we are all conserving energy with fewer steps and less driving.

Is it worth it?

A highly qualified: yes. Although our farm earns 90% of its revenue from wholesale sales, the farm store has better margins—ranging from 20%-30%. Per-day store sales average just over $500 with lows of $240 and highs of almost $1,000. Nothing else related to the farm pays as well for so little effort.

The store is also the face of the farm. At one time, farms didn’t need a face, other than a name painted in large letters on one end of a barn. But today’s consumer wants to see the farm and talk to the farmer. Perhaps I’m oversensitive but sometimes it feels like people doubt that we raise our own animals, and they question whether the pork in the freezer was really at one time a pig on our farm. They need to see that we are legitimate. It helps that we often have sheep in the front yard and that our farrowing barn (actually another garage—anyone see a trend here?) is nearby. There’s nothing like a 400 lb sow sneezing on you to make you realize the tenderloin is real.

The result of this close consumer/farmer relationship is that we have some truly incredible customers who are tolerant of the inevitable inconsistencies in non-industrial food production and of higher prices, and who give us great tips and ideas and who, well, buy a lot!

However, as we all know, a face can say many things, intended and unintended. Seeing the docking bands on lambs’ tails, we’ve had people accuse us of animal cruelty. A sheath of wheat on the farm store wall has lead to heated conversations about production (we are not organic).

My report on the farm store wouldn’t be complete if I didn’t mention the incredible opportunities it offers to put your foot in your mouth. I have slammed food giant Sysco only to discover I was talking to Sysco’s regional manager (still made a sale though) and I’ve said bad things about cooked pigs feet to an Asian customer looking for pigs feet (no sale).

The singular disgrace may have taken place just last week when a woman, in her 40s, very trim and tidy, and recently arrived in the community, visited the store for the first time. She was one of the types that had many questions about how we treat our livestock. Though the store was busy and I was distracted, I marched her to the farrowing barn so she could see the most recent batch of sows and piglets. We were greeted by Red, a huge, cranky, beautiful sow, named for her colour, which is that of a newly minted penny.

“What a wonderful animal,” the woman enthused. Clearly, she was impressed.

A cagey man would have said nothing. But I could not leave well enough alone.

“Actually, she’s a real witch,” I said, then added as an afterthought, “Typical redhead.”

I looked at the woman. Her hair was the colour of a newly minted penny. Redder, even.

Farm store sales were slightly below average that day.

Great greens
By Kim Langen A guide to leafy, mixed greens—mescluns & lettuces.

Understanding the feed tag
By Wayne Skelton Sometimes what is not stated on the tag can be as important as what is.

Managing the cold chain
By Treena Hein How to best freeze, store, transport and handle meat.

Breathe easy
By Courtney Denard Proven strategies for dealing with allergies on the farm.

Departments

News & Notes Growing world crops in Canada, program encourages planting of maples, quick test for food safety, four farmers who achieved profitability, funding for bison research.

Q&A Great ag apps for smart phones. 

At Pasture Subdivide pastures for better grazing.

Practical How to move farm buildings.

Notes from the Larkspur Supper Club By Dan Needles The hazards of too much information.

• When working in the barn, I try to make sure I am always carrying something: full feed buckets in one direction, returning a shovel to its proper place on the way back. To increase efficiency even farther, carry 10% more feed in each bucket for fewer trips, and more cardio benefits.
• We try to keep vehicles working (as in loaded) all the time: we deliver product to a customer and return with a load of livestock feed. Mileage (and driver time) is effectively improved if the truck is full. Add a trailer behind the truck and we are even more efficient.
• In the same mindset: We stack up a list of to-dos in town so that a trip to the doctor is combined with getting a watch repaired and maybe a visit to a friend. . .
• I keep duplicates of basic tools in barns, vehicles and equipment. This often speeds repairs and eliminates the need for a trip from field to shop for tools.
• If I have to go to the shop for tools, I employ the take-everything approach, so that I don’t have to come back for another wrench. I figure the time it takes to return all the tools is less than a trip from field to shop
• I use corners of time to get little things done: make a call to a customer while waiting for the kettle to boil, sweep the barn floor while waiting for a water tub to fill up. . .
• Lists! Not only does a list help me remember what to do and when and in what order each day, but a list helps employees/helpers go about their tasks without having to bother me.

“It seems to me that efficiency is tied up with a sense of when to do something really well (takes time) and when to do a slap-bang shoddy job (super quick). Installing a gatepost warrants a lot of time, washing out a farm vehicle, or cleaning water tubs do not.”
Never stop learning. Take advantage of information offered through AAFC, your provincial department of agriculture or its equivalent, agricultural publications such as Small Farm Canada, ag organizations and folks who have been there and done that. Not only will you be a better farmer, you’ll also be a sharper person. Mental stimulation is one of the six pillars of a brain healthy lifestyle that may prevent or delay the symptoms of Alzheimer’s disease and other dementias. If we could delay the time of onset of these conditions by even 10 percent, that would be significant, and another testament to the power of 10.

• A doctor and part time farmer in Peterborough, ON, says he’s quadrupled production from his laying hens simply by adding _______ to the feed. Sourced for free from _________, he adds just ¼ cup per tonne. Egg yields are an incredible _________dozen per hen. “Farm income is beating income from my medical practice by 3:1,” he says. “I don’t know why others aren’t doing this, it is so simple!”

• Government aid to small farmers is all too rare, and when it is offered it requires filling out a mass of paperwork. Not the little known Ag___________ Program, somewhat surprisingly available through the federal government’s Department of _____________. Following a simple on-line application that takes a few minutes, funds are delivered within a week in a 1-tonne _____________, usually in $20s, $50s but sometimes $100s. One farmer in PEI reported that he received so much ________ that he had to build a __ sq ft shelter to handle it all . Fortunately, there was assistance for that too. For more information: www. ____________all-the-_______ you-need.com.

• Tired of seeing Canada geese ravage his crops, a vegetable producer in Alberta installed a $10 ________ salvaged from his brother-in-laws’ 1980 Toyota __________ at the edge of his field, and has seen damage drop by over 95%. “The geese just fly past,” said Herman __________ of East __________. “Whatsmore, and as a bonus, the ___________ seems to be keeping school groups and members of the ________ sect away from my door too.”

• Want to increase profits at farmers markets? Fed up with languishing sales, Gina _________ , a market gardener from __________ , hired three magnificently well- _________ members from the local health club to staff her booth at the __________summer market. Clad only in tiny ________, and slathered in _________ oil extracted from _________ (that Gina grew herself), they demonstrated to customers the wonderful uses of ___________. “Even when we doubled the price, customers were lined up four deep,” she said.

But seriously, who wants farming to become possessed of the competitive kill-or-be-killed attitude that has poisoned so many other businesses? Certainly not me. If any readers want details of the above stories, just call and I’ll be happy to oblige. I can always be reached and 250-4__-02___.

The power of 10 – Five ways to improve life on the farm by
at least 10 percent.
By Shirley Byers

An honest man and his honest flock – Karl Bowen has spent a lifetime working with Horned Dorset sheep.
By Jeffrey Carter

Is a winter subscription program for you? – Helps Three farms share their experiences.
By Helen Lammers

Heating farm buildings – New technologies and old standbys—
a look at safety, cost and more.
By Treena Hein

DEPARTMENTS

Letters Declaration of “successful” farms premature, affordable small combine idea too fanciful.
News & Notes What feathers say about chicken health, plants that welcome bacteria into cells, four farm trends, Chinese rainmakers, food safety dust-up.
Q&A Farmville explained, legality of using the term “organic”.
At Pasture A self-described “old-fashioned farmer” has some new ideas about grazing.
Recipes Using leftovers to create delicious pizza and soup.
Practical Sliders make even a heavy barn door manageable.
Notes from the Larkspur Supper Club By Dan Needles Our new columnist sets the stage for a thoughtful (and sometimes comedic) exploration of food and the people who produce it.

1: Location, location, location
If building a permanent or somewhat-permanent coop (rather than a chicken tractor), location is key. The coop should allow your chickens easy access to their run, and ideally permit rotation among two or more runs. Choose a site close to a water source, electricity (if using lighting or heat), your feed storage area and wherever you wash and package the eggs. The coop and run area should be on a high, well-drained spot, to avoid puddles.

2: Size matters
The traditional rule of thumb is to allow 1.5 (45.72 cm) to 2 (60.96 cm) square feet of floor space per hen, but allow for more if possible. If it snows and your birds are cooped up for longer than usual, will they have enough room to move around and be comfortable? Or will they get cranky, which can impact egg production and lead to bullying or cannibalism?

3: The structure
Your coop will need to withstand snow, rain, extreme temperatures, wind or whatever climatic conditions are possible in your region. In extreme cold coops may need to be insulated. The roof (and ideally walls as well) should be waterproof, and provide shade for your chickens on sunny, hot days. If possible, slope the roof to prevent rain from running off directly over the chicken’s entrance to the coop.
When choosing your floor, think ahead to when you’ll have to clean it. Manure, bedding, spilled feed, etc. can be easily shovelled off a concrete floor, which can be hosed off and sanitized. Sloping the floor towards the door will make it easier to wash and dry out the building.
Doors, opening windows and vents are best placed on the lee side, away from wind, usually the south or east side. Windows provide ventilation in the summer and sunlight and warmth in the winter.
Remember that you will need to be able to enter the coop too, to clean, refill the water/feed and collect eggs. Include a human-sized door and aim for a ceiling height that allows you to stand comfortably.
One more note: if you build with screws instead of nails you will be able to tweek the design more easily.

4: Ventilation & temperature
In small-scale chicken houses, ventilation and temperature control don’t need to be complicated. Windows and vents allow stale, warm air to escape in the summer, and fresh air to enter in the winter. Keep the air temperature steady, and avoid draughts from outside.
If your coop is too large, the hens may not be able to keep warm if it gets cold or draughty in the winter, and you may need to add a heat source.
Plan for good air exchange both in the summer and winter. If your coop design doesn’t allow for clean air from outside to enter, the inside air may become dusty, or ammonia levels may rise and affect your hens’ health.

5: Food & water
Feeders and waterers should be easily accessible by both you and your chickens. The top lip of a feed trough should be at a height that allows the hens to eat but not climb into them; generally, at the birds’ shoulder height.
Depending on bird size and breed, allow for roughly 12 inches (30.48 cm) of water trough space for every six chickens. If using a nipple drinker, allow for up to 15 birds per nipple (maximum). Nipples should be positioned above so that a hen can easily access them with her neck extended, without standing on her tiptoes.
Bell-style waterers or troughs should be positioned at bird-shoulder height. Note that these drinkers should be cleaned daily, as they easily become contaminated with bedding or feed. Nipple drinkers and other closed watering systems are cleaner options, although they should be checked regularly to ensure they aren’t clogged.

6: Perches
When chickens come home to roost, they like to have a nice sturdy perch to rest on. Perches can be made from various materials: cedar posts, tree branches . . . any strong 2” (5.08 cm) by 2”(5.08 cm) material with a rounded top will do.
Since most of the manure in the coop will accumulate under the perches, strategic positioning lets you control where you want this manure build-up to occur; ideally, in a part of the coop that’s comfortable for you to access and clean. If possible, build removable or hinged perches to allow for easy cleaning.
To prevent injury to your chickens, install the perches between one (30.48 cm) and three feet (91.44 cm) from the floor. Allow for at least six inches (15.24 cm) of perch space per chicken, and ensure that the perch is strong enough to support the weight of your birds. Space the perches 14 inches (35.56 cm) apart.

7: Nesting boxes
Nesting boxes provide a clean, dark refuge for hens to lay, and a convenient single place for you to gather the eggs. Nesting boxes are typically 12 inches (30.48 cm) high by 15 inches (38.1 cm) wide by at least 12 inches (30.48 cm) deep, and roofed, with at least one box for each four to five hens. The boxes should be a minimum of 18 inches (45.72 cm) off the floor: a perch can be attached 6”(15.24 cm) to 8”(20.32 cm) away from the door, running parallel to the box, to make it easier for the hens to enter.
A sloped roof will prevent the chickens from roosting and leaving their manure on it. Alternatively, nesting boxes can be attached to the outside wall of the coop, with door openings cut into the wall for the hens to enter from inside. A hinged roof allows for convenient egg collection and nest cleaning from the outside.

8: Lighting
If your hens live full-time in the coop you will need to incorporate a lighting system, even if it’s simply a window; egg production is stimulated by daylight. Poultry experts generally advise that daylight (natural or artificial) should be kept at about 16 hours each day to maximize egg production. When designing and constructing your coop, aim for even lighting with minimal shadows or bright spots. Shadowed areas may become unintentional nesting areas, leading to dirty and hard-to-reach eggs.

9: Security
Dogs, mink, cats, raccoons . . . a secure coop will protect your chickens from predators, and reduce stress for both you and your hens. Install heavy-gauge wire mesh beneath the coop floor to reduce ground-level access. Windows and vent openings should be screened in with poultry wire (sliding glass windows provide ventilation and control temperatures, yet seal securely). Seal cracks to protect against rodents, some of which can squeeze through a nickel-sized hole.
Keep your compost pile well away from the coop and don’t let uneaten kitchen scraps accumulate in the chicken area. Keep the surrounding area mowed and clear of clutter.
Additional fencing or netting around the coop perimeter will help deter dogs, cats and racoons. A latch on the coop door lets you lock the coop when necessary. Higher-tech options include motion-activated lights around the coop or even burglar alarms.

10: Storage space
If possible, you may want to incorporate a storage area into your coop design, for your cleaning equipment, feed, new bedding, egg-collecting bins, etc. Feed should, of course, be stored in a way that protects it from rodents (e.g. metal bin with a tight lid), so consider the size of containers when planning your storage space needs.

Herewith a few thoughts on farm machinery, past, present and future:

Tractors—end of an era?
No matter how much our farming friends sing the praises of their 1970s vintage Masseys and International tractors, I can not believe this equipment will remain viable for yet another generation. Either the parts will become too difficult to source or the reliability will become such that the tractors are only suitable for farm parades. By 2025, when most Boomers will be done farming, much of this equipment will be 50-60 years old.
Which raises the question, what next? If the past is any measure, some farmers will pony up for new tractors while others opt to move to a newer version of old, purchasing 1990s and early 2000 era used equipment. It is no slight to the manufacturers to question whether the lighter, sprightlier tractors manufactured in the last 20 years will hold up like the iron heavy models of 40 years ago. I guess we’ll see—but probably from the vantage of a rocking chair on the porch, not the tractor seat.

A combine for the people!
It is high time for a new, economical combine for small farms. I’m thinking of a machine that could do 2-5 acres/hr, and costs less
than $60,000, new. The equipment many of us are using now— combines of 70s, 80s and early 90s vintages can be made to run for only so long. Newer machines are both too big and, with on-board computers and digital hoo-has, virtually impossible to fix yourself and too expensive to call in dealer help. The kind of combines I’m talking about are being manufactured and used—in India and China. There are reminiscent of early Gleaners and Internationals. Not pretty but very functional. Completely serviceable for the able farmer. The trick is not getting one into Canada—that’s probably an email and a few clicks on PayPal away—it is setting up a support network to provide parts. Or, even more fanciful wish—perhaps a North American manufacturer could dust off some old blue prints and start manufacturing such a machine.

Push & pull
For some time now larger farm tractors have had the option of operating equipment on the front as well as the rear. There are tractors with three point hitches and PTO options on the front. It took a recent trip to the UK for me to realize just how useful this could be. I watched a farmer leveling a rough tilled field with a combination tine/roller on the front while (or, as the Brits would say “whilst”) drilling in winter wheat on the rear. Marvelous! I think of all the time we bump and crash around a field— pulling a disk, or harrow, or roller—and imagine the difference even a 25% gain in efficiency would make. Or how about the multiple passes making hay? It should be possible to mount a rake to the front of the tractor so the windrow goes straight into the baler. Attach a hay wagon behind the same baler and put a couple of sturdy kids on it and you’d have a model of efficiency.

Betwixt land & sea
By Jeffrey Carter To farm in Acadia you must be heroically adaptable.

There’s gold in them hills!
By Kim Langen Small Farm Canada’s own variety trial reveal the best spuds!

Battle of the bugs benefits plants
By Keith Norbury BC firm supplies biological pest controls to farmers seeking alternatives to sprays.

Departments:

Letters Chicken factoids + weed-eating cattle.

News & Notes Hair extensions pluck feathers from chickens, flyfishers; can Atlantic Canada’s wool waste warm houses?; Ontario’s crackdown on barn parties; here comes Peak Phosphorus (and what you can do about it).

Q&A Seeking biodegradable mulch, field peas as possible chicken feed.

At Pasture Why people are part of Manitoba’s serious grass advantage.

Practical Shipping containers make useful farm shelters.

Harper government ushers in national long pig registry
By Al Pope Feds ignore this basic truth: pigs don’t kill people, people kill people!